Trend spotting at Fashion Week
Against the backdrop of a crisp white marquee and under a late afternoon glow, cameras flashed and snapped as media, bloggers, buyers and spectators arrived at Melrose Arch, Johannesburg, for African Fashion International’s Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week (AFI MBFWJ).
Fashion industry professionals may feel disconcerted that AFI’s Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week doesn’t confine designers to a particular season. But, judging by the collections, the lack of direction was liberating.
Given that we are a season ‘behind’ and tend to follow international trends, it was interesting to see that dots à la Marc Jacobs and Lela Rose; military green à la Ralph Lauren and Jason Wu, and gingham and check as defined by Michael Kors and Oscar de la Renta were missing from our runway.
Perhaps what Li Edelkoort said at her “Vanities: The Mythology of the Self” seminar at Design Indaba 2015 is true – “it’s the end of fashion as we know it”. She added that, as Africans, we shouldn’t look at being behind but rather at setting our own trends. “In the South you are one season behind. Why don’t you turn it around and say you are one season ahead.”
SOME OF THE HIGHLIGHTS OF THE WEEK INCLUDED:
______________
- THE PANTSUIT
What started as a 20s innovation was perfected and popularised in the 60s by Yves Saint Laurent’s archetypal androgynous glamour girl. Khosi Nkosi’s fitted midnight blue pantsuit, paired with a tie and her geometric-print evening suit with matching head wrap, had fashion editors taking note.
______________
- NEW DENIM
We saw it last year with a special denim fashion editorial edition directed by Sunday Times Fashion Weekly’s Tiaan Nagel and Roxanne Robinson. This time is was Marianne Fassler with the deconstructed denim. Her collection showed shifted hemlines, frayed edges and cut-out detailing.
______________
- DIAPHANOUS FABRICATION
Gavin Rajah’s collection was all black-and-white lace and mesh detailing on beautifully constructed, flowing frocks in diaphanous fabrics while David Tlale’s much-anticipated show (which was presented at New York Fashion Week last month and was staged off-site at the Old Fort at Constitution Hill) showcased diaphanous fabrics, marble print silks; drapey blouses and dresses in neutral tones,.
______________
- CONVERSATIONAL PRINTS
Recognisable items as a repeated motif lend a fun edge to garments. Selfi’s Celeste Arendse nailed it on the runway with her bright tones and incredible prints on collared shirt-dresses and sleeveless tunics.
Words Zodwa Kumalo-Valentine
Images – MBFWJ
