Rwanda: the future is bright

In the 21 years since the horrific genocide that claimed a million victims, Rwanda has undergone a truly amazing transformation.
Today it is characterised by tribal unity and political stability, and has one of the fastest growing economies in the world.

Known in the tourist industry as the “Switzerland of Africa” it boasts beautiful mountainous terrain and the capital city, Kigali, has clean streets, orderly marketplaces and a well-maintained infrastructure.

“Rwanda is a fantastic country and I’d recommend it to anyone who wants a first-time African experience,” says Cathy Chames, who did some work there as a senior researcher for Southern Hemisphere, a socio-economic development consulting company.

“If you’re not used to ‘real Africa’ then Rwanda is an ideal starting point. There are good hotels, access to Internet and it’s safe and friendly.”

Tourism is once again a vital part of Rwanda’s economy and its shining stars are the mountain gorillas living in the tropical jungle beneath the Virunga volcanoes.

Tourists can purchase packages that offer one- or two-day trips. It’s expensive – on average $911 (approximately R11 000) – but the money goes to research and protection of the gorillas, as well as funding 360 community upliftment projects across the country.

“The trip is sensitively done and incredibly well organised,” says Cathy, who booked the trip through Volcanoes Safaris Rwanda. “If I can give any advice it’s to get everything on the kit list. We thought we were prepared because we’re outdoorsy people, but this is real jungle. They laughed at my three-quarter gym pants and sent me back for heavy-duty trousers and gaiters.”

Trackers head out early and stay in constant contact with the guides on walkie-talkies. “You walk through fascinating terrain and the guides keep anticipation high. It’s really exciting.”

Once you’re close, you get the rules – no pointing, no interacting, no flash photography – and then you’re free to sit quietly and observe. “We stepped into a clearing and suddenly they were all around us. I could have reached out and touched them. It was truly amazing.”

The animals are habituated, so the presence of humans doesn’t distress them, but an hour is the maximum and then you’re firmly ushered away – in awe of these amazing creatures and with memories to last a lifetime.

Back in the city, the Kigali Memorial Centre is a powerful and poignant tribute to the 1-million people who lost their lives during the100-day siege. It documents the history leading up to the genocide, and unpacks how it was that the rest of the world sat back and watched it unfold.

It’s an extremely powerful and moving memorial that requires at least half a day to do it justice.

There’s no doubt; the scars run deep. But the country’s palpable atmosphere of growth and optimism makes this the perfect time to add Rwanda to your bucket list of must-visit places.

Words Emily Pettit-Coetzee