PRINCE OF PRINTS

Bold, clashing African prints and clean, tailored lines were just what the FROW at the first South African Menswear Week expected from YOU, Huisgenoot and DRUM fashion director Chu Suwannapha.

Chulaap is a reincarnation of a label Suwannapha started in Thailand and traded under as a designer in Paris. But when he moved to Cape Town 14 years ago, he turned his attention to styling, editing and directing – until just two months ago when South African Menswear Week (SAMW) approached him to design a collection for the exclusively menswear event.

Known in the industry as the Prince of Prints, Suwannapha has been strategically cultivating a brand and groupie following via Instagram – posting images of himself in his signature clashing print mash-ups.

After only two weeks’ production time, a dream became reality when his collection hit the catwalk – comprising immaculate coats and trousers in mixed African prints and origami detailing, oversized V-neck shirts with knitted accents, hats in collaboration with Simon and Mary.

“I’ve always wanted to work with young South African creatives – from musicians to artists,” says Suwannapha. “The collection is inspired by local street style. My aim was to reinvent African fabric and make it more modern, more cool and more fun.

“Quite simply, East meets South. It’s a celebration of Africa and it brings in my own heritage and background.”

Suwannapha says if he’d allowed himself to do Western design, it would have been far easier, but way too predictable. This was his chance to bring some conceptual thinking and design into fashion, something he feels is often lacking. He counts David Tlale, Suzaan Heyns, Black Coffee, Laduma Ngxokolo and Thula Sindi among the leaders in hardworking South African designers who stay true to their aesthetic but are not afraid to push the boundaries. “They are also very nice people.”

The recipient of 2014 SA Style Awards’ Most Innovative Style says the two weeks he spent putting the collection together were extremely hectic but a lot of fun. With the help and support of SAMW and Cape Town Fashion Council, Suwannapha hopes to continue growing his brand and, judging from the response after what was billed as the “best show of menswear week”, he may soon have to trade in his day job to focus on the much-anticipated follow-up installment of Chulaap.

BY Zodwa Kumalo-Valentine

Images by SDR Photography & Trevor Stuurman